When you hear the name "Salem," what comes to mind?
The Sanderson sisters' hometown in Hocus Pocus?
The setting of Arthur Miller's The Crucible?
A haven for witches?
The wisecracking cat from Sabrina the Teenage Witch or the ever-present familiar from Chilling Adventures of Sabrina?
The site of an egregious miscarriage of justice?
Guess what? They're all the correct answers.
Last weekend, I visited Salem, Massachusetts, with my husband and my daughter. The historic town holds a special place in our hearts for several reasons: Back in 1998, as a naive college senior, I decided to brave the Salem hordes on Halloween night, and I distinctly remember seeing a guy dressed like Austin Powers — one crushed blue velvet suit, one frilly lace cravat, and one pair of Union Jack underpants.
Turns out that was my future husband — though we wouldn't officially meet for another four years.
This was actually our second Salem vacation as a family: We did a day trip two years ago, and we had so much fun that we had to return for Memorial Day Weekend.
(Look, we love Halloween and everything witchy, but this is a hill I will die on: You couldn't pay me to visit Salem in October. Our tour guide informed us that the town of 45,000 swells to about 1.3 million people in October. And as someone who abhors crowds, just no.)
The good news is, Salem’s vibe is no less spooky in May.
The town has obviously embraced the witch vibe -- because they’d be leaving money on the table if they didn’t. (And I'm certainly not asking them to stop.) But there’s no better time to remember that Salem is much more than the (real-life) setting of two campy episodes of Bewitched in 1970 and the two equally campy Hocus Pocus movies.
Salem's witchy identity was borne out of an authoritarian society that hid behind false claims of "religious freedom" to carry out cruel punishments on those deemed unsuitable, unworthy, or lesser than.
See also: the Salem Witch Trials.
In addition to taking a nighttime tour of the town, we visited one of Salem's most famous landmarks, the Witch House. This building, built circa 1675, is the only still-standing structure in Salem with a direct connection to the witch trials. We took a self-guided tour, and while I already knew the history, it was time for a refresher.
It may be called the "Witch House" (because, you know, marketing), but this location actually never housed any accused witches. This was the home of Judge Jonathan Corwin, who, in 1692, played a major role in the Salem Witch Trials: He presided over many of the examinations of those accused of witchcraft as well as their accusers, both before and during the trials.
Basically, he was complicit in the hysteria that resulted in the unfair imprisonment of 150-200 people for the crime of witchcraft. Oh, did I mention there was zero due process for any of the accused?
By the time the witchcraft panic died down, 14 women and five men were hanged, one man was tortured to death, and at least five people perished in prison.
TL;DR: Twenty-five people died from unsubstantiated hysteria and accusations.
Sound familiar? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
As I walked through Corwin's home/the Witch House, I stumbled upon some food for thought:
"Could the hysteria that swept through Salem in 1692 happen again? Under different guises, do events like what happened here take place in our modern world?"
Why yes, yes it could. As a matter of fact, it’s happening right now in the United States in 2025, in the form of unlawful incarceration and deportation of immigrants.
"Human beings tend to react very dangerously when experiencing a heightened state of fear, especially when that fear is experienced for prolonged periods of time.
Throughout history, when one group perceives a danger or threat from another group, mankind is capable of great cruelty in our effort to nullify or remove that threat."
Hmm, you don’t say! As in the rhetoric from a certain president and administration? One that (inaccurately) portrays immigrants as dangerous criminals?
"We consent to acts that bring dire consequences in our attempts to control our circumstances, our fortunes, and engineer their improvement."
Like the people who voted for Donald Trump. Or the people who, not wanting to make waves, keep their heads down and stay silent while terrible things happen.
"Where in our modern daily lives do we perceive threats? Where in our world are people experiencing and reacting to fear? From the ongoing persecution of 'child witches' in Africa, to global terrorism, to classroom and cyber bullying we are still surrounded with events that marginalize the group or individual, through acts of violence and domination.
It is hoped that we could learn from the lessons of 1692 Salem and respond to our modern and changing world more favorably."
I felt chills after reading this because once again, we've forgotten our history. We're doomed to repeat our mistakes -- from before we were even a country! -- if we don't learn from our past. To be fair, the Salem Witch Trials took place in 1692, nearly 100 years before the Constitution was even written (and nearly 200 years before the passage of the 14th Amendment), so it’s not like the presiding judges knew about habeas corpus or due process. But this dark part of our history is no less of a cautionary tale.
And let’s not forget about the hypocrisy that fueled the Salem Witch Trials: The Puritans who inhabited Salem purportedly came here from Britain for “religious freedom.” I even learned from our tour guide that the name “Salem” is derived from the Hebrew word “Shalom,” which means peace. But there was no peace among the townspeople in 1692. They quickly proved that the only “freedom” they wanted was to impose their beliefs on their neighbors — and if their neighbors didn’t comply, they might find themselves imprisoned for the flimsy crime of witchcraft.
Three hundred-plus years later, Puritanism just goes by another name: white Christian nationalism.
Se also: MAGA.
Look, if it hadn't been for movies like Hocus Pocus or TV shows like Bewitched, Salem wouldn't have its much-deserved second act as the “Witch City.” My family and I spent just as much time indulging in Salem’s fun, witchy side as we did learning about its bleak history.
Yes, we totally did a family photo shoot where we embraced our inner witches. Thank you, WitchPix:
Our daughter decorated a broom and created a potion celebrating next month’s Strawberry Moon at the very pink Good Witch of Salem shop. (Highly recommend this place for anyone who loves bright colors and needs a break from the ever-present black decor among Salem’s retail establishments.)
She even received her very first tarot reading — at my favorite Salem shop, Pentagram — where her brilliance leapt off the cards.
I freely admit that I love glorifying witches (both fictional and real): Witches, and what they symbolize, are a terrific way for people -- women especially -- to take back their power. Besides, who doesn't adore Samantha Stephens, Sabrina Spellman, the Sanderson Sisters, Sally and Gillian Owens, Stevie Nicks, Hermione Granger, Elphaba Thropp, and Galinda/Glinda Upland?
But the biggest takeaway from any Salem visit still needs to be rooted in fact. And the fact remains that THERE WEREN'T ANY WITCHES IN SALEM IN 1692.
We must acknowledge Salem’s history -- beyond The Crucible (which itself was Arthur Miller's commentary on the Red Scare of the 1950s, and Sen. Joseph McCarthy's witch hunts for American communists). It doesn't take much to notice the striking similarities between the Salem Witch Trials of 1692 and the United States of 2025: Withholding due process for the accused. Punishment without any evidence. Growing hysteria.
The vibe in Salem was just what I needed as I continue to seek joy in a country that's consistently letting me down. Not to get too supernatural, but Salem’s spirits are constantly reminding us not to let our dark history repeat itself.
And you can even find those reminders in the unlikeliest of places, like Wynott's Wands — which is the spitting image of Ollivander's shop from Harry Potter.
I overheard the woman behind the counter mention that she was a teacher and that education was the most powerful spell against ignorance (I'm paraphrasing, but you catch my drift).
If I were a witch, I would conjure up extra COVID vaccines to protect the American people now that Secretary Brainworm has decided that most people in this country don't need an annual booster.
(And I'd either give it away for free or make every insurance company cover 100% of the costs.)
But I can't do any of that. Because, like everyone accused in 1692, I'm not a witch.
I'm just someone who believes in democracy — and actual religious freedom. That everyone is allowed to worship (or not worship), however they please.
There’s magic in holding tight to those beliefs.
If it’s feasible, I encourage you to consider adding Salem to your vacation/getaway list.
About 30 minutes outside of Boston, Salem offers the perfect balance of history and enchantment: One minute you’re channeling your inner Stevie Nicks in a professional photo shoot, the next you're climbing a set of creaky stairs in a preserved 17th-century home — and learning about how its resident was complicit in the conviction and killings of 25 innocent people.
One minute, you're posing next to a whimsical statue of Elizabeth Montgomery flying on a broomstick; the next, you're discovering that Salem was hardly a bastion of "religious freedom” in the 1600s.
One minute, you're relaxing with a cocktail at the historic, wood-paneled Hawthorne Hotel (celebrating its centennial this year!); the next, you're visiting the memorial of the 25 people falsely accused of witchcraft 300+ years ago.
Salem is a town of contradictions, but that's what makes it such a delight.
As always, I thank you for reading,
—Sarene